Art Deco London

Work is taking me down to London a few times during June and July. The first of three visits took place last week. I caught a train late Wednesday afternoon ready for a meeting the next day. It’s not much fun sitting in a budget hotel room near Euston, so I decided to get out for a wander around Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia.

London’s a different world from a northern town like Wigan. So much more hectic and busier and with a lot more activity and things to see even while just mooching about. I’m fairly familiar with Bloomsbury as you’re in the district as soon as you step outside Euston station, but, even so, I often spot something I’ve not noticed before while I’m out “street haunting”.

Bloomsbury and nearby Fitzrovia are noted for Georgian and Regency architecture. But in amongst the neo-Classical squares and crescents there are other types of buildings, including a few in the Art Deco / “Streamline Moderne” style from the 1930’s. Here’s a few photos – some I’d seen before but a few I’d noticed for the first time. The light wasn’t great for photos, unfortunately, but here’s a few snaps anyway.

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Block of flats on Coram Street, Bloomsbury
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Former Bentley Garage
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University College London, Senate House, off Russell Square
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The doorway of the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine
I sat my BOHS Certificate oral examination in this building many years ago
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This building on the Edgeware Road looks like it used to be a cinema
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Broadcasting House, the headquarters of the BBC, on the corner of Portland Place and Langham Place, Fitzrovia. The first radio broadcast from the building was made on 15 March 1932
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The sculpture of Prospero and Ariel  by Eric Gill on the facade of Broadcasting House.
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Middlesex House in Fitzrovia. A 5 storey office building erected in 1934 that was previously a garment factory
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Another view of Middlesex House

Book Benches in Bloomsbury

In summer 2014, a huge range of books will come to life across London, celebrating the city’s links with literature, showcasing accessible visual art from top personalities and local artists and providing entertainment for adults and children alike. (Books about town)

The benches are like giant books, opened with one half folded over to form the seat and the other upright acting as the backrest. There are four trails around the city, one of them in Bloomsbury – not suprising given the area’s literary connections. I came across a number of them as I wandered around Bloomsbury late Wednesday afternoon.
Pride and Prejudice in Queens Square
 

1984

The Impotance of Being Earnest

Sherlock Holmes (not a good photo as a private party was taking place preventing access)

Mrs Dalloway in Gordon Square

There were more, but I didn’t have time to seek them out.

 

Book Benches in Bloomsbury

In summer 2014, a huge range of books will come to life across London, celebrating the city’s links with literature, showcasing accessible visual art from top personalities and local artists and providing entertainment for adults and children alike. (Books about town)

The benches are like giant books, opened with one half folded over to form the seat and the other upright acting as the backrest. There are four trails around the city, one of them in Bloomsbury – not suprising given the area’s literary connections. I came across a number of them as I wandered around Bloomsbury late Wednesday afternoon.
Pride and Prejudice in Queens Square
 

1984

The Impotance of Being Earnest

Sherlock Holmes (not a good photo as a private party was taking place preventing access)

Mrs Dalloway in Gordon Square

There were more, but I didn’t have time to seek them out.

 

Street Haunting

 

Another trip with work for to London for a couple of days this week. After my final meeting on Wednesday, late afternoon, I had three hours to kill before I could catch the train back home (I refuse to pay out just over £300 for a two hour journey which would allow me to take an earlier train – even if it’s not my own money!) but there’s always something to do in London. So as Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury set have been on my horizon for the last few weeks – since I visited the exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery I’ve been following up with some reading – and as it was a nice, warm, sunny afternoon, I decided to have a stroll around the streets of Bloomsbury.

Walking through the streets of her neighbourhood and other parts of the city was something Virginia Woolf herself was fond of. She even wrote a short piece, Street Haunting, about one such walk one evening from her home in Bloomsbury to the Strand to buy a pencil. And walking through the streets of London is very much central to her novel, Mrs Dalloway.

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I didn’t attempt to follow VW’s route but took a fairly random course trough the old Georgian Streets and Squares, diverting to look at some favourite buildings

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I ended up by the British Museum. It was heaving with tourists – it was August and the height of the tourist season, after all. As there was less than an hour before it closed, and I couldn’t have faced the crush inside, a visit wasn’t on the cards. Instead I turned into Bury Place and wandered into the London Review Bookshop.

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I spent a little time browsing their shelves and then found myself a seat in their rather excellent cafe (as recommended by Barbara of Milady’s Boudoir) where I had a pot of tea and a cake (to bring up my blood sugar level ready for the walk back to Euston afterwards)

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Feeling reinvigorated, I treated myself to a book for the journey back home and then set off back into the streets of Bloomsbury. I took a bit of a circuitous route, towards Queen’s Square, passing the house where Bertrand Russell used to live

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I passed this building with it’s interesting Bauhaus style lettering

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past some more traditional Georgian period houses

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and into Queen’s Square itself

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After tha I decided I’d go and have a look at Gordon Square where Virginia and Leonard Woolf and various members of the Bloomsbury Se, including Vanessa and Clive Bell, John Maynard Keynes and Lytton Strachey all lived for a while.

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A very pleasant garden in the centre, accessible to the public these days, it would have been private and reserved for residents when the square was first built, But there were plenty of people enjoying the warm sunshine.

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The “Bloomsbury’s” lived in the terrace of houses on the east side of the square

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Virginia, Leonard, Vanessa and Clive all lived at No. 50

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While Lytton Strachey lived next door at No. 51

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Today, like much of the surrounding area, the houses are owned by the University of London.

The few hours had passed quickly so it was time to head past yet more typical Georgian houses back to Euston, only a few minutes walk away, to catch my train home.

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Art Deco building in Bloomsbury

Last Thursday I had to go down to London on business. My meeting was on Red Lion Square so, despite the rain, I walked across Bloomsbury from Euston Station. I like to wander off the beaten track a little turning down side roads and looking out for interesting buildings, monuments and the like. The last time I did this I discovered Mary Ward House, an Art Nouveau / Arts and Crafts type building. This time, taking a slightly different route I came across this rather magnificent Art Deco building in Herbrand Street.

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A little research on th’interweb revealed that the building, now occupied by an advertising agency, used to be a garage for the Daimler Hire Limited, who, as the name suggests, used to hire out Daimler cars. It was built in 1931 and the architechts were Wallis, Gilbert and Partners, who were also designed the Hoover Building on Western Avenue (A40) in Perivale, West London.

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The circular part of the building was originally a ramp where cars were driven up to the showrooms on the first and second floors.

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Mary Ward House

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Only a few days after our short break in early January I was back in London again, this time on business. But I always try to keep my eyes own for interesting architecture and works of art and while walking through Bloomsbury from my hotel to the venue of my meeting I spotted this building in Tavistock Place. Very “Arts and Crafts” with Art Noveauish features, I stopped for a short while to take a look and snap a few photos on my phone – not so easy during the Central London rush hour!

A little research on the net when I had chance revealed that the Grade 1 listed building – Mary Ward House – was built in 1898 as a centre of training, care and entertainment for “the less fortunate in society”. It was financed by the wealthy philanthropist Passmore Edwards who was inspired by  Mary Ward, a novelist and social reformer. Originally known as Passmore Edwards House it was renamed after Mary Ward in 1921 the year after her death.

I particularly liked the main doorway which reminded me of the work of Rennie Mackintosh

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I also liked the distinctive lettering over the doorways – very “Art Nouveau”.

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I found some information about the history of the building on the English Buildings blog which tells us that the building

housed the first properly equipped classrooms for children with disabilities and was also home to a centre where children could come to play in a safe, warm, bully-free environment. A hall, gym, library, and other communal rooms were provided, and there were also residential rooms for those living in the settlement.

This blog post also tells us that Gustav Holst used to be the settlement’s Director of Music.

Today the building is used as a conference centre. There are some photographs of the interior on their website.

There’s some more information and some photographs on the Victorian Web website here and some information on the history of the Mary Ward Settlement here.

Chain of Events in Bloomsbury

 

Walking through Bloomsbury from Holborn towards St Geoarge's church during our break in London, as we walked through Bloomsbury Square, I spotted an abstract sculpture ont he pavement outside a building. “Ah”, I thought, “that looks like something by Peter Randall-Page”. Turned out that I was right.

Peter Randall-Page is a British sculptor and I've admired his work ever since I saw a major exhibition by him at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park a few years ago. Since then we've come across works by him in public places such as Newcastle and Bristol, and we also saw a small exhibition by him in Wigan a couple of years ago (before they shut down the only public art gallery in my home town).

He has quite a distinctive style with much of his work inspired by organic forms, particularly plants, and this was an example. The sculpture was commissioned by BUPA and is situated in front of their offices in the Square. It's called 'Beneath the Skin' (1991) and was carved from Irish Kilkenny limestone, a favourite material of his, I think. The shiny, top surface has been polished by the back sides of many people, I suspect as it makes a perfect seat to sit and take a rest.


(Image from here)

Running along the low walls to either side of the entrance there was another, later work by him. A type of mosaic . This is Chain of Events (1996) created from white Portland stone inlaid in black granite.

I particularly liked this piece which I thought was very attractive. Primitive but modern.

Although I'm no fan of BUPA, it is always a pleasant surprise to stumble across an attractive artwork by a favourite contemporary artist in the street.
 

 

The Radev Collection at Abbot Hall

We drove up to Kendal last Saturday, the main reason being to visit  The Radev Collection: Bloomsbury & Beyond, the latest exhibition at the Abbot Hall gallery before it finishes at the end of this month.

The exhibition comprised a selection of paintings and other works from the Radev collection – a collection of 20th Century works accumulated over a number of years by three gay men who were associated with the Bloomsbury group.  From the Gallery’s website:

The Radev Collection is named after Mattei Radev, who came to Britain in the 1950’s as a stowaway on a cargo ship, fleeing from communism in his native Bulgaria. Radev went on to build a new life in London mixing in the artistic Bloomsbury circle and becoming a leading picture framer for the London Galleries.

Radev inherited most of the works from his friend the artist-dealer Eardley Knollys who had in turn inherited from music critic 5th Lord Sackville, Eddy Sackville-West following the latter’s’ death in 1965.

Abbot Hall is the last call for the exhibition which has already been shown in Chichester, Lincoln, Bath and Falmouth.

Quite a number of the works were by artists, many of them British, that I hadn’t come across before. But there were some were some works by more well known artists including prints by Picasso and Braque and paintings by Lucian Pissarro,  Graham Sutherland, John Piper, Ben and. Winifred Nicholson, Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant.  Although there were no “great” masterpieces, the standard of works on display was very high.  And it is always good to be introduced to artists I’ve not come across before.

These are a few of the works I particularly liked.

This abstract painting by the Russian Expressionist painter Alexej von Jawlensky, who worked in Germany and was a member of the Blue Rider group, was displayed in the first of the three rooms immediatly facing the door, so it was hard to miss. I’ve been reading up on German Expressionism lately so found it particularly interesting.

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Blaue strasse c. 1916 by Alexei Jawlensky (1864 – 1941)

There were a couple of paintings by Winifred Nicholson. This simple, subdued painting of flowers on a window sill was my favourite.

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Waking up (c. 1954) by Winifred Nicholson

And there were a couple of paintings by the French painter Maurice Denis. He was, apparently, very religious and this is often reflected in his subject matter as in this painting.

Procession in Brittany

Procession in Brittany by Maurice Denis (1870 – 1943)

There was an original of the little dancer bronze by Henri Gaudier-Brezska, a copy of which we saw at Kettle’s Yard when we visited Cambridge in January 2012. It’s a lovely little work, beautifully posed. It was really nicely displayed- spot lit so it casted shadows behind it onto the walls – very effective. No photos allowed at Abbot Hall, but here’s a picture I took of the Little Dancer when we visited Kettle’s Yard.

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The “discovery of the day” was an English painter  I’d not come across before, Adrian Ryan. There were a number of works by him on display, a couple of landscapes and a still life. The two landscapes, with their bright colours and swirly brushstrokes, very much reminded me of works by Van Gogh.

The canal at Moret-sur-Loing

The canal at Moret-sur-Loing (1948) Adrian Ryan (1920 – 1998)

All the works from the collection can be viewed on the website on a dedicated website here.

The title of the exhibition emphasised the connection of the three collectors with the so called “Bloomsbury set” of artists, writers and the like. But there isn’t a Bloomsbury style or school of art as such. The collection is simply representative of the type of art being produced in Britain and a few other countries at the time and that would have been popular with the type of people associated with the loose grouping of intellectuals. So a marketing ploy rather than a description of an artistic movement. But a good selection of works, nevertheless. And definitely worth the drive up the M6.