Third time lucky?

The weather had continued to improve so on the third day of my little break in the lakes I decided to tackle a favourite mountian – Great Gable. It’s a big, distinctive lump of rock that stands out from the surrounding fells. It’s not “pretty” like some – using a French term I’d describe it as “jolie laide”. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but you can’t fail to be impressed by it’s ruggedness. And it looks very different depending which side you’re viewing it. It’s prettiest face being the one viewed from Wasdale where it appears as a classic pyramid. But for me, whatever the angle, Great Gable remains a favourite fell.

The summit is one of the best viewpoints in England with views across to the Scafells and down Borrowdale, Wasdale, Ennerdale and Buttermere. If succesful (not garanteed!) it would be the third time I’d have climbed this great hulk of volcanic rock. The first time was when I was 16 or 17 (with a party from school organise dby our maths teacher who was the spitting image of Bob Harris, the presenter of The Old Grey Whistle Test). It was not a fine day to say the least. It rained all the way up and the summit was enveloped in cloud and we couldn’t see a thing. The second time was when I had a short break in early May a couple of years ago. I reached the summit with heavy snow falling and the views completely obscured. Would it be third time lucky?

It was fine day as I set off up the valley towards Seathwaite. Although I could see fairly thick cloud up above the fells, given the forecast I was optimistic that it would “burn off” and disperse.

I took the path on the east side of the river to Seathwaite and then it was on to Stockley Bridge

and up the Sty Head Pass

Looking back to take a photograph down the pass was a good excuse for a short rest!

Casrrying on the cloud was clearing and it was getting seriously warm.

Reaching Styhead Tarn the water looked very inviting and several people had accepted the invitation.

I stopped for a short break for a bite to eat and then set off again towards the brand new stretcher box.

There’s Great Gable. It doesn’t look so high – but looks can be deceiving!

I started my climb. It definitely wasn’t as easy as it looked! So several brief breaks were required as I made my way up the steep path.

Looking back down to Sty Head Tarn.

and down Sty Head Pass

I eventually reached the summit, to be greeted with

cloud!

I decided to hang around for a while with the hope that it might clear.

I took alook at the monument dedicated to the members of the Fell & Rock Climbing Club who died in World War I. The club bought 3,000 acres of land including Great Gable which it donated it to the National Trust in memory of these members. An annual memorial service is held here on November 11th, Remembrance Sunday.

My patience paid off, at least to some extent, as some gaps appeared in the cloud. For the first time I was able to experience the classic view down Wasdale and Wastwater,

and down Ennerdale and the Buttermere valley

Unfortunately the cloud reappeared.

Anyway, although a little disappointed I started to amke my way down the very steep path to Windy Gap ready to climb the neghibouring fell of Green Gable.

It wasn’t any easy descent and in some places more than feet were required!

But I eventually made it to the hawse in one piece to be greeted with the view of Ennerdale

and the Buttermere valley

The climb up Green Gable, although up scree in places, was considerably easier than the ascent of the fell’s bigger sibling! Being lower down the views weren’t obscured by cloud.

There was a definite difference in the weather between the western and eastern fells, with thick high cloud above the former while the latter were experiencing blue skies and sunshine.

I descended down Green Gable ready to climb my third fell of the day, Brandreth.

Looking back towards Green Gable and Great Gable from the hawse

Then a steady climb up Brandreth

I was getting drunk on the views by now

After Brandreth a relatively easy, although boggy in parts, bimble over to the final fell of the day, Grey Knotts followed by a long, steep descent towards the Honister pass. It was tricky in places and difficult underfoot.

Feeling tired, I was glad to reach the Slate Mine car park.

But I was far from finished. I had to get down the Honister Pass to Seatoller and then make my way back to the hostel. So a few miles to go.

There was a short section of tarmac to endure

but the route soon diverted on to the old toll road, walking on a track, gravel and stone initially but then on grass.

The path emerged at the hamlet of Seatoller and then my route took me along a short stretch of road, passing Seatoller Farm where I’d stayed during my last visit to Borrowdale.

Then it was back along the riverside path to the hostel. I was ready for a shower – and just made it in time for my allocated slot!

So was it third time lucky? – sort of, I guess.

Irrespective of that I’d had an excellent, if exhausting day. I had managed brief climpses from the summit but was also able to savour the views from 3 other fells I’ve never tackled before on the return journey.

Here’s a link to the route

Great Gable

The last day of my holiday in Borrowdale, and I still hadn’t been up on the high fells. It was raining when I woke up and the weather forecast suggested that it would continue for a while before clearing late morning, so I decided I’d have to venture out, and after a hearty breakfast, that’s what I did. Unfortunately, I discovered, yet again, that weather forecasts can be unreliable. On Monday and Tuesday it had been better than forecast, and I was keeping my fingers crossed it would be the same outcome as I set out heading towards Seathwaite, with the intention of climbing Great Gable.

It was raining, but I was wearing appropriate clothing that would keep me warm and dry. I certainly wasn’t the only fool setting out. I spotted a number of walkers setting out up on to the fells.

Seathwaite

Although when I reached Seathwaite I stopped to chat with a couple around my own age, who had decided to leave it for another day. Undaunted I continued along the path

until I reached the picturesque Stockley Bridge,

where I turned up the path that started to climb up the fells up to Sty Head.

It’s a good, engineered path (at least most of the way) so I made good progress.

But it continued to rain and I could see that the tops of the nearby fells were shrouded in cloud. Never mind, I thought, it’ll clear up soon! Looking back down the valley I convinced myself that there were signs that this was happening.

I made steady progress, enjoying the walk despite the rain (fortunately it was coming from behind me; much preferable than having it hitting me in the face)

and after a couple of hours I’d made it to Styhead Tarn, which is almost at the top of the pass. Now this is a wonderful viewpoint at the foot of Great Gable and with Scafell Pike, Scafell and their adjacent siblings dead ahead. But today the high fells were largely covered in cloud so most of the summits weren’t visible. In fact I began to wonder whether Scafell Pike actually existed! But I could see that those mountains I could see had a covering of snow towards the summit. Now this wasn’t what I was expecting.

I stopped for a while to refuel and took stock. A group of walkers ahead of me had turned off and it looked like they were going to tackle the Corridor route to Scafel Pike. That didn’t seem such a good idea to me. And it probably wasn’t such a good idea to head up Great Gable either, as I could see some snow settled towards the top. But feeling optimistic I decided to carry on.

Looking back to the tarn. Looks like conditions are improving.

Reaching the stretcher box at the top of the pass, just beyond the tarn, I turned right to take the path up Great Gable.

The Mountain Rescue stretcher box at the top of Styhead Pass, with the Scafells behind. I was hoping I wasn’t going to need this!

Scafell Pike is in there, somewhere!

It was continuing to rain as I climbed, but I was making good progress.

The start of the path up Great Gable. Doesn’t look too bad?

But then the rain got heavier and there was some hail mixed in with it. Never mind, carry on. Looking down I could imaging what a fantastic view I would have had on a better day. I could also see a small party coming up the path further down, so that encouraged me to carry on.

Getting closer to the top, there was some patches of snow underfoot. But nothing too serious. I can cope with that!

But then it started to snow. I reckoned I hadn’t too far to go so decided to carry on, but as I climbed the snow started to come down harder. Eventually I realised that’s I’d reached the summit, but visibility was very poor as the snow continued to fall and it was windy too. So I huddled down behind the cairn.

Reaching the summit

The summit of Great Gable is one of the best viewpoints in England with views across to the Scafells and down Borrowdale, Wasdale and Ennerdale. But I couldn’t see a thing. I’d been up here once before, when I was about 17 with a party from school led by a Maths teacher who was a keen walker. We didn’t have snow that day but there was low cloud so when we reached the top that day we were in thick mist and couldn’t see anything. This time it was even worse.

The cairn and rocks I sheltered behind was the site of a monument dedicated to the members of the Fell & Rock Climbing Club who died in World War I. The club bought 3,000 acres of land including Great Gable which it donated it to the National Trust in memory of these members. An annual memorial service is held here on November 11th, Remembrance Sunday. I braved the wind to take a look at the monument.

By this time the group coming up behind me had reached the summit and, as you do, we had a chat. I was feeling a little vulnerable up on top on my own in the snowy conditions so asked if they would mind if I tagged on to their group as they descended down the “Windy Gap” and then back down to Seathwaite, which was also my intended route down. It seemed the sensible thing to do (as I hadn’t been that sensible carrying on up on my own when conditions were deteriorating).

Looking down towards Styhead and the Scafells.

We located the path we wanted to take (not so easy in poor visibility) and started to make our way down. It’s quite steep and required a bit of scrambling, a little tricky in descent, especially with snow underfoot. But this path is more sheltered and there was less snow and as we descended conditions underfoot improved.

The start of the path down to Windy Gap

It didn’t look too bad on Green Gable, which is lower than it’s “sibling”

Looking down towards Ennerdale from Windy Gap. Visibility wasn’t great but at least I could see something of the valley and Pillar Mountain with Ennerdale Water just visible in the distance.

Reaching the hause, in better conditions I’d have liked to have climbed the neighbouring fell of Green Gable, but today continued on down the scree covered path that would take us back down to Styhead Tarn.

The Scafells were still hidden in the mist, but looking back I could see that the cloud was clearing off Great Gable and conditions were certainly improving. If I’d reached the top an hour or two later then I might have had a view. Ah well, the Fates are clearly determined to stop me experiencing the great views from the top of this mountain.

Looking back up to Great Gable. Conditions definitely better. If only I’d set out a couple of hours later 😦

Looking across the tarn to the Scafells

I continued back down to Borrowdale with the group. As we descended, conditions were certainly improving, although it continued to rain.

Heading back down the pass towards Borrowdale

Conditions definitely improving

The view along Borrowdale towards Seathwaite

Back at Stockley Bridge

After crossing Stockley Bridge we continued down the path to Seathwaite. A short distance along the metalled road from the farm towards Seatoller we parted company when the group reached their vehicle which they’d parked up on the verge.

The road back to Seatoller.

I continued the last mile back to the farm and was glad of a soak in a deep hot bath.

So my last day in Borrowdale had been something of an adventure. On reflection I’d have been better if I’d set out a little later. But I hadn’t and encountering the conditions when I reached Styhead, I really should have turned back. I still would have had an enjoyable walk, though I know I’d have been disappointed not to have made it to the top. But hindsight is a wonderful thing and decisions have to be made on the spot. Luckily, I didn’t come a cropper, but on my own I could have done, particularly if conditions had deteriorated still further.

So I’ve been up Great Gable twice and on both occasions haven’t been able to enjoy the views. But the mountain hasn’t gone away so I’ll just have to look out for a good day when I’m not in work and get up there again. Mind you, will I be able to trust the weather forecast?