I sat by the lake for a while enjoying the view and the sunshine and refueling. Then it was time to set off again. Not surprisingly it was busy as I walked along the lake shore with plenty of families enjoying messing about beside and in the water. Only after my trip did I discover via social media that Shazza of Sunshine and Celandines was also in Grasmere that day as well as a former collegue I knew through my work. It’s a small world as they say! Mind you, there were plenty of other people around.
At the foot of the lake I took the path alongside the river towards Rydal Water and carried on along the lower path along the lake shore. I’d made the decision to carry on to Rydal village and then return to Grasmere along the Coffin Route.
On a hot sunny day during half term it wasn’t surprising that, like Grasmere, the lake shore was heaving with families.
Reaching Rydal I passed the church
Climbed the hill and turned off and cut through the grounds of Rydal Hall
and then stopped at their cafe for a brew and get my water bottle refilled (they’re happy to do that for you). My blood sugar had now dropped so I munched on one of my energy bars.
I’d managed to bag a seat outdoors overlooking the river
and this was the “view from the bridge”
Rested, I walked up the hill and next to Wordsworth’s former home,
and turned off down the Coffin Route.
It was moderately busy as it’s a popular route that’s not difficult so attracts a range of people of varying abilities and there are good views across Rydal Water to Loughrigg and some of the higher fells beyond.
Approaching Grasmere village towards the end of the walk I passed another of Wordsworth’s former homes – Dove Cottage.
I arrived back in Grasmere which was now very busy with day trippers with queues outside the Gingerbread Shop and all the cafes and food shops. I sat for a while on a bench taking in the views of Stone Arthur and the other hills across the vally before returning to my car for the drive home (via Keswick Booths and the Tebay services farm shop where I did some shopping for a few tasty treats!).
After a night in the hostel I woke to another fine day with views over the fields to the high fells. After breakfast I loaded up the car and made an earlyish start, driving over to Grasmere. I’d had a think about a low level (or lowish if that’s a real word 😁) that would’nt be too strenuous. I’d read in a book I’d purchased last year about the Cumbrian “coffin roads” about the route locals Chapel Stile in Langdale had to use to carry thei dead to be buried in the church in Grasmere. I’d decided to park in Grasmere and walk over the fells below Silver How over to Chapel Stile and then return by the coffin road. It seemd like it would be a decent circular route I’d not followed before, matching my requirements of something not too strenuous. As it happened I pushed myself a little harder than intended and also made some off the cuff changes to the planned route.
It was quiet in Grasmere and before I set out I grabbed myself a coffee in the Heaton Cooper Gallery (Lucia’s Cafe wasn’t open but this turned out to be a good substitute – a decent coffee with tables outside on a sunny day with a view over to Stone Arthur (and good cakes, sandwiches and breakfasts, too)
Energised by the caffine, I set off. This, right at the start, is where I made one of my decisions to vary the route, deciding to climb to the summit of Silver How rather than passing it lower down.
At first I felt pretty good climbing the lower slopes
and looking back, on a particularly fine morning, there were most excellent views over Helm Crag, Seat Sandal and Fairfield
About half the way up (maybe a little further) my lack of fitness began to tell – not helped by a high blood sugar level (which explained why I felt so thirsty) caused by being tempted by the tea loaf at the cafe and not compensating with some insulin. Consequently I needed to stop a few times for a “blow” (in the Scouse parlance I picked up when in lived in Liverpool while at University this means a rest, not some illegal narcotic!). Being stubborn, I wasn’t going to let it beat me even if everyone else climbing up (not very many people I have to say) were overtaking me!
I eventually made it to the summit – time for another rest to soak up the views in every direction.
Down to Grasmere and Rydal Water
Farfield, Great Rigg and Seat Sandal
Pike o’ Blisco, Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and the Langdale Pikes
and the Coniston Fells
Rested and refreshed, I set off down from the summit on the path towards Langdale.
Another change of mind now. I was enjoying being high up enjoying the great views. So rather than descend into the valley and climb back up again, I decided to stay up on the ridge and walk over to pick up the Coffin Route path as it crossed the top of the fell. I’m never one to stick to a plan if a better one becomes evident during the walk.
This is the path I’d have descended down into Langdale if I hadn’t changed my mind.
Instead I carried on up and down on the hummicky fell (I probably made that word up too, but it seemed to describe the nature of the ridge), enjoying the walking and the views
Looking back to Silver How
Back to the Langdale fells
and south to Elter water with Windermere visible in the distance
I reached the coffin route towards the edge of the ridge and turned eastwards to follow it down to Grasmere. The descent here was extremely pcturesque – initially with views across to the fells and Grasmere
The route took an old “lonning” (a Cumbrian term for a lane or track) through the Hammerscar Plantation
The shade from the trees was most welcome. I expect that this would be a good walk during the autumn when the trees are wearing their coat of red, gold and brown leaves.
The lonning emerged on the road above the lake. Now to complete the Coffin Route I’d have followed it back to the village. But the lake was tempting me so another change of plan and I walked down to the shore where I stopped for a rest and a bite to eat
It was about 1 o’clock now and I didn’t feel like calling it quits for the day, so another decision – I’d follow the shore of Grasmere and then on to Rydal Water where I’d decide whether to carry on to Rydal Village and return to Grasmere by another Coffin Route (one I’d walked a couple of times before). Alternatively I could miss out Rydal Water and cut across from White Moss and walk half of the route.
But this post has gone on long enough. part 2 to follow when you’ll find out which options I took!