The weather on the Wednesday of my Hebrides trip wanted to remind us that we were in the Western Isles! We woke to grey skies and as we drove over the peat moorland that covers the interior of Lewis we were battered by the rain. We were heading for Uig, the largest and most sparsely populated district of the Isle of Lewis (not the port on Skye where we’d boarded the ferry the previous day) for a walk along the cliffs near the small village of Mangerstra.
We parked up near the small Abhainn Dearg (Red River) Distillery. Established in 2008 it was the first legal whisky distillery in the Outer Hebrides in almost two hundred years.
We didn’t have time to visit, but booted up, donned our waterproofs and set off up the road
After a couple of kilometres we left the tarmac and headed down a track that took us towards the Mangerstra and the cliffs beyond.
After a short climb we were up on top of the cliffs. The rain had eased off as we walked close tot he edge taking in some pretty spectacular views
After a while one of the party spotted a curious little structure close to the edge of the cliffs.
We climber down and had a look inside.
The bothy was constructed by John and Lorna Norgrove, of the Linda Norgrove Foundation which was established in October 2010 in memory of their daughter Linda, an aid worker who was killed during an abortive rescue attempt after she was kidnapped in Afghanistan.
The bothy is an original memorial to Linda in a very spectacular location and can accommodate up to 3 people overnight. For us it was a welcome shelter as a rain shower swept in.
As the rain eased off we carried on along the cliffs for a while before stopping for our sandwiches, sheltering behind rocks as another heavy shower swept in.
As we were eating some of us spotted something in the sky – a large bird with wings that resembled barn doors. It was a Sea Eagle (also known as a White Tailed Eagle). We watched it as it swooped across the sky before disappearing further along the coast.
After walking a little further along the coast we cut in land across the peat moor, joining the track that took us towards the village of Mangeresta
Looks like one of the locals has had a little mishap!
We passed through the village and carried on along the narrow road heading back towards where we’d parked up. The party started to split up and I found myself at he back with Ria, the Dutch member of our party, as we were taking in the views. Suddenly we spotted a shape in sky the distance. A Sea eagle, perhaps the same one we’d seen before. We stopped to watch and Ria produced a pair of binoculars from her pack. After a while a second one appeared! We stopped for a while to watch them swooping through the sky close to the coast. The rest of the group, further along the road, missed out.
Carrying on the cloud appeared to be starting to clear and the Uig hills, which had previously been largely hidden by the low cloud, became visible.
After a while we descended back down the hill towards the minibus, taking in the views of the white sands of Uig beach.
We dumped our packs in the back of the minibus and John our guide suggested we might want to walk over the beach while he drove the minibus further along the coast where he would meet us.
It’s another spectacular beach with a vast expanse of golden sand. It has a particular claim to fame as it was here that the Lewis Chessmen were discovered in 1831 by Malcolm MacLeod, a local crofter. The 78 intricate individual pieces made from walrus ivory and whale teeth had probably been carved in Trondheim in Norway during the 12th century. Nobody knows why they ended up here.
Malcolm’s family were soon “cleared” from their homes and he ended up selling the chessmen for £30 – a lot of money for him but a paltry sum for such exquisite objects. The majority ended up in London in the British Museum, with a small number in Edinburgh. A small number have been loaned to the museum in Stornoway, and we were able to see them later in the week.
Unfortunately we didn’t find any pieces as we walked across the beach. A pity as the last time one was sold after it was discovered in a drawer in Edinburgh, it went for £795,000. A bit more than Malcolm received.
The tide was out so there was a vast expanse of sand to cross. I was interested in the rock formations. The geology of Lewis is dominated by Gneiss, one of the oldest rocks on the Earth, formed up to 3 billion years ago.
John made it easy to find him!
We returned to the minibus and drove back over to Stornoway where there was time to shower and take a short rest before heading out for a very decent curry at a local hostelry.
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How wonderful that you saw not one, but two, maybe even three Sea Eagles! Very envious. I will have to look up this blog again if / when ( let’s be positive! ) I get back to the Outer Hebrides again. Love that you have included some quirky bits and bobs like the cow sign and the local who had a mishap. 😊 What a story about the bothy.
We saw another Sea Eagle the next day 🤩
That’s amazing. I never saw any though I did see the otters which was amazing and lots of dolphins.
Well we didn’t see any otters or dolphins so now I’ll just have to go back 😉
Superb wild scenery up there. That both is quite well known now, another fantastic spot to spend the night
It was a good shelter from the rain! But you’re right a good memorial and it raises awareness of their charity.
That looks absolutely stunning, despite the rain, because of it even.
What a beautifully humane way to commemorate such an inhumane tragedy—by building a bothy to welcome others.
Love the water pipe!
I agree with you on all fronts there George
The coastline and cliffs look very much like certain parts of Angelsey. I like the cow sign and the white sand beach and the bothy is a lovely way to remember someone 🙂
Yes, there are some similarities. Also with the Pembrokeshire coast. Have you ever been to that part of Wales?
No I haven’t, in truth I’ve never been any further down than Barmouth. I suppose I should make the effort but not with the cost of fuel as it is now 😦 I’ve just come back from ten days on North Wales, a saga in itself which will eventually appear on my blog 🙂
It is a long, awkward drive down to Pembrokeshire. And you’d need to take out a mortgage to pay for the petrol!
It’s diesel, that’s even worse. I topped up the tank at Asda the other day while I was away, £86 for just over half a tank – it wasn’t that long since I could fill the tank from almost empty for less than that!
Our cottage for our summer break overlooks Uig beach. You probably passed it!
I am SO jealous 😖. A couple of weeks there would be fantastic – although I’m not sure I’d be able to cope with the isolation much longer than that!
Nor could I! We’ll just be there one week with somewhere a bit busier for a few days either side
I hope the weather (and midges!) are kind to you Anabel. It’s a fantastic area and I’m sure you’ll enjoy some peace and quiet for a few days 🙂
We will stock up on Smidge and take our head nets, waterproof clothing – and even some sun cream just in case!
I bet you’ll use all of them during your week 😂
Probably all on the same day.