For my second walk during the hot and sunny Bank Holiday weekend, not wanting to endure the inevitably busy traffic, I decided to take the train over to Littleborough. I’d worked out a route that would take me over to Todmorden, taking in a stretch of the Pennine Way. It was a long walk but doable. As it happens I ended up extending it a little.
Arriving at the station, a short walk along the road I was on a minor road that crossed the canal and then became a track that was soon out into the fields. A path then took me through some woods, past a farm and then past the golf course with views of the hills opening up.
The low cloud that was hanging over Wigan and Manchester had cleared by the time I reached Littleborough. It was sunny and becoming hot and there was barely a breeze. The wind turbines on the hills were completely still.
The line of pylons carrying power cables that stretch out over the moors brought to mind a poem by Stephen Spender that I’d studied for my O Level in English Literature. Here’s an extract
The secret of these hills was stone, and cottages
Of that stone made,
And crumbling roads
That turned on sudden hidden villages
Now over these small hills, they have built the concreteby Stephen Spender (extract)
That trails black wire
Pylons, those pillars
Bare like nude giant girls that have no secret.
Can’t say I’ve seen many nude girls that look quite like that, mind!
I guess that the modern day equivalent are the Wind Turbines of which I could see plenty on the nearby hills during my walk.
I’d originally planned to climb up the “Roman road”, that would let me join the Pennine Way to the north of Blackstone Edge. As it happens as I reached the path that would lead me to the start of the ascent, looking up to Blackstone Edge I decided to divert and climb the edge, taking the path up to the south of the summit, adding 2 or 3 miles to my planned route.
Looking down to Hollingworth Lake as I climbed
A couple of curious locals ahead
The top of Blackstone Edge ahead
It didn’t take too long to reach the top of the hill with it’s jumble of millstone grit bolders
I stopped by the trig point for a short break and a bite to eat. Just like on Friday, long range visibility wasn’t so great but the views over the moors were still OK.
I was now on the Pennine way so followed the path heading northwards. Looking back to the Edge.
I reached the Aiggin stone
The Pennine Way then descended down the “Roman road”
before turning north by the drain – a waterway taking water from one of the reservoirs that feed the Rochdale canal
It wasn’t too long before I reached the White Horse pub on the A58 which runs over the Pennines from Littleborough to Halifax.
Crossing over there’s a short walk stretch of road before the Pennine way continues along a gravel path that’s used a a service road for a string of reservoirs.
This path extends for a few miles and is pretty flat. It’s reputedly the easiest stretch of the Pennine Way. The lack of inclines means it’s also one of the least interesting stretches, but on a fine day there were good views over the moors and the water in the reservoirs was a lovely bright blue.
About a mile along the track I reached this little bridge, which I crossed and then walked along to an outcrop of millstone grit in a former quarry
Inscribed on the rock is a poem
This one of the Stanza Stones – poems by Simon Armitage (the new Poet Laureate) inscribed on rocks on the moors between Marsden (his home town) and Ilkley, all about an aspect of the water which frequently falls on these moors. This is the Rain Stone
Unusually (!) it wasn’t raining today, but it had been a few days before and the moors off the path were wet and boggy.
Rejoining the path I carried on heading north passing a string of small reservoirs.
After passing the last of the reservoirs, the path continued over the boggy moor. Fortunately flagstones have been laid down over the boggiest section other it would have meant walking through a quagmire. There’s a reason why Simon Armitage located his Stanza Stones up here!
Soon, Stoodley Pike came into view
It didn’t look so far off, but sometimes your eyes can deceive you!
Carrying on, Todmorden and the nearby villages came into view down in the valley
and looking in the opposite direction towards Cragg Vale, home of the Coiners
My plan was to descend down the Calderdale Way and follow it to Todmorden where I’d catch the train back to Wigan. Looking north along the Pennine Way, Stoodley Pike didn’t look so far off and I was tempted to continue onwards.
But I’d extended my walk by a few miles already by tackling Blackstone Edge so I decided to stick to my original intention.
The path was an old packhorse trail and had been paved, making the walking relatively easy.
I was greeted by a couple of sheep as I entered the small village of Mankinholes
It’s small village of old traditional Pennine houses, an ancient settlement, going back to the 13th century, and some of the houses were built in the 17 th century. They would probably have been originally occupied by textile workers, weavers and spinners, who worked from home, so the houses have the typical rows of mullioned windows that allowed maximum light into the first floor work rooms.
I reckon that later on, after the Industrial Revolution had killed off the domestic textile industry, the occupants probably went to work in the mill in nearby Lumbutts – there’s an old path across the fields between the two villages and that was what I followed.
Lumbutts isn’t as old, coming into existence along with the mill in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Reaching Lumbutts I passed the local pub which, on a Bank Holiday afternoon, was busy with customers enjoying a meal and a pint.
Time was getting on so I didn’t stop but carried on to have a look at the village chapel
It’s rather a large chapel for a small village but probably served the surrounding area. It was only constructed in 1911, replacing an earlier building. The ground floor was used for the Sunday School with the main chapel above it.
I rejoined the Calderdale way which carried on along the road and down the hill towards the old mill. The only thing left is the unusual old tower.
The mill was water powered and the tower contained three water wheels, one on top of the other, powered from lodges on the hills above.
I carried on along the road for a while passing the rows of terraced workers’ houses
A short while further on the Calderdale Way turned off the road to start crossing some fields. Looking across to Stoodley Pike
I passed a number of old, traditional houses which are now expensive, desirable residences
Soon I could see Todmordem, but it was still a way off
I carried on along the Calderdale way through fields and along a country lane, eventually arriving at the small former textile town down in the bottom of the narrow valley.
Todmorden used to split by the border between Lancashire and Yorkshire and the neo-Classical Town Hall actually straddles the border.
Since Local Government reorganisation it’s been entirely in West Yorkshire, but remnants of the old loyalties remain. My walk had taken me from Littleborough in Lancashire (well, Greater Manchester these days) and across the border into West Yorkshire. But it would be difficult to tell the difference as the landscape and architecture across the South Pennines is essentially the same.
I’d run out of water a couple of miles before reaching the town (should have stopped at that pub!) so needed to get some cold liquid. It was nearly 5 o’clock and everything seemed shut but I managed to find an off licence were I was able to buy a couple of bottles of diet coke from the fridge for a couple of quid. The cold liquid and caffeine were more than welcome and I quickly downed the contents of one of the bottles saving the second for the journey home.
I didn’t have too much time to look round before the next train was due so I made my way to the station. It was running 10 minutes late and I might have otherwise missed it (although they run every half hour). Just over an hour later I was back in Wigan.
Another grand walk on what was probably going to be the last sunny day for a while. I also feel that September is the beginning of Autumn, so this was my last walk during this year’s summer. But Autumn can be a good time for walks too – so fingers crossed!