Impressions of Budapest

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We’ve just got back from a short break in Budapest. It was our first visit to the city – and our first foray into Eastern Europe. It was an enjoyable break. These are my general impressions.

The city

  • A beautiful city which reminded me of Paris in many ways, at least on the Pest side of the river, with buildings of uniform height on tree lined boulevards, a cafe culture (but with more emphasis on cakes!).
  • Two cities in one – the older Buda on the hills on the west bank of the Danube and Pest on the east bank – linked by a number of bridges.
  • It had a safe, relaxing atmosphere.
  • Lots of things to see and do – we weren’t able to see everything we would have liked to during our 4 day visit.
  • It was less busy than other popular “tourist cities” such as Paris, London and Barcelona – fewer pedestrians and less traffic and fewer tourists.
  • Relatively small – most of the sights are in a relatively compact area – less spread out than Paris and London
  • Good, and cheap, public transport system – trams, buses, trolley buses and underground.
  • Less obvious poverty visible on the streets than in many other cities (especially London and Paris), but its difficult to know how representative the central touristy areas are compared to the city as a whole.

The people

  • Fluent English spoken in cafes, restaurants and most touristy places. Widespread use of English on tourist information (leaflets and even street signs) on public transport
  • Very friendly and helpful in our hotel and all the cafes and restaurants we visited.
  • Less friendly in shops – often quite frosty
  • Although some of the staff in the museums and state owned attractions were friendly, the majority were very frosty and some very officious.
  • I sensed a nostalgia for a more aggressive, imperial past. There were lots of statues of aggressive kings and warriors and there were a number of references from tourist guides and in tourist information to the times when Hungary was a larger country .

Eating Out

  • Plenty of good value restaurants.
  • Food generally very good
  • Emphasis on meat – and more meat.
  • 10% tips expected. May be included on bill (always check – ask if not clear). Don’t leave tip on table but tell waiter how much to add to bill when they bring it.

Architecture

  • Mixture of styles, reflecting the history and development of the city
  • The Pest side of the city developed during the 19th and early 20th century and the architecture is a mixture of styles representative of that period – neo-classical, neo-gothic, neo-renaissance and art nouveau, with a smattering of art-deco and modernist buildings.
  • Relatively few post WW2 buildings and very few modern ones (1990’s to 21st Century) in the city centre.
  • Lots of interesting art nouveau style (Secessionist) buildings scattered all over Pest.
  • Some of the “older” medieval buildings and structures are not as old as they first appear – the popular “Fisherman’s Bastion” was actually built during the late 1800’s.
  • Flying into the city we were able to see the large estates of Brutalist tower blocks in the wider conurbation. Of course, these are well outside the areas tourists visit.

Museums and Galleries

  • Plenty of museums and galleries dotted around the city.
  • Complex pricing structure for entry into the various temporary exhibitions
  • Staff – see above.
  • Excessive attention from the staff in the galleries – you were continually watched and followed. A hangover from the old Communist days.
  • The majority seemed to be somewhat behind Western Europe in the way they were organised. For example,  the displays were not always curated imaginatively, there were no guide books on the collections available, information on the displays was minimal and
  • In most cases the gift shops had very little available to purchase (applies to both information and souvenirs). The Pure Arts Museum, which had a well stocked shop, was the exception to this.

Cornwall

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We’ve just got back from a week’s holiday in Cornwall, based in a seaside apartment in the small village of Marazion looking out on to St Michael’s Mount.

If we’d carried on much further we’d have been in the sea as it’s only about another twenty miles or so to Lands End. Its a hell of a drive, at 360 miles door to door, but well worth it as we thoroughly enjoyed our time down there. We were fortunate to have decent weather for sightseeing. On most days it was a little chilly for lying around on the beach – luckily that’s not my idea of a holiday.

We spent the week exploring the  area and the time just disappeared. Luckily, once we were down there all the main things we wanted to see were relatively close. The furthest place we visited, the Eden Project, being only an hours drive away.

It’s hard to believe that I’ve never been to Cornwall before. Previously, I’ve only been as far a Plymouth, mainly to catch the ferry to France or Spain. But as we’ve decided to spend more time exploring our own country, Cornwall was an obvious destination, coupled with the desire to visit the Tate outpost in St Ives after I’d watched a few programmes on the St Ives School on BBC 4 at the end of last year.

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Our apartment overlooked the beach and had a stunning view of St Michael’s Mount. It had large bay windows and a balcony and we were able to while away the evenings watching all the activity taking place on the beach and in the sea. People were constantly coming and going and there was usually  something going on in  the bay – yachts, rowing boats, and sea kayaks; small boats ferrying visitors to and from the mount when the tide was in, people walking across the causeway when it was out – with some people risking wading across even when the tide was in.

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A short stay in Oxford Jail

Last week we had a short break in Oxford, staying in the Malmaison hotel. Like all the hotels in the chain, it’s located in a converted building – in this case the former Oxford Jail, which is part of the Oxford Castle complex. It wasn’t cheap (I don’t think I’ve ever paid as much for a hotel room) but this was a special treat for a “significant” birthday.

The hotel is in a good location, close to the railway station (a good job as they have limited parking available and charge quite a lot to reserve a space), and as Oxford is a small town, its only a few minutes walk from all the main sites.

After checking in we took the lift to the top floor in the main cell block and walked out into a scene from “Porridge“.

Our room had originally been three individual cells – two making up the main bedroom with the bathroom in the third.

The bars had been removed from the original high level windows and an extra, larger, low level window had been knocked out of the exterior wall in the bedroom.

The accomodation was very comfortable with all mod cons. A different experience than that endured by the original inhabitants. We certainly didn’t feel like trying to escape!

A night in Portmeirion

The Village

The Village

Anyone who has ever watched the 1960′s TV show “The Prisoner” will recognise the scene in the picture above. It’s the village were Patrick McGoohan was held captive as “Number 6″.  I used to watch this programme as a boy and was always facinated by the place.

The location for the series was  Portmeirion, a fantasy village in North Wales created by the architect Clough Williams-Ellis. He acquired the estate, on a peninsula near Portmadoc, in 1925. At that time there were only a few buildings on the site, including the mansion that now houses the hotel, a lodge/stable block that is now become “the Salutation“, the building now known as “the Mermaid” and  Castell Deudraeth, a Victorian mansion, which isn’t in the village proper, but stands closer to the entrance to the estate.

Over the years he assembled a collection of buildings which he relocated to the site while he had others constructed from scratch from his designs. In some cases he created new structures from disparate elements he acquired. For example the ornate porch on “the Pantheon” (or “Dome”) is a massive Norman Shaw fireplace!  The result was an Italian style village on the coast of North wales. But its misleading to think of it as Italian – it has its own style. I mean, would an Italian village have a floodlit statue of the buddha and statues of Thai dancers on top of columns in the main square? Look closely at the buildings and they’re not always what they seem. Proportions are such that some of them appear larger than they really are.

It isn’t always obvious to day visitors, but the village is actually a hotel.  Of course, there is the Hotel itself, situated in a stunning location on the estuary, and Castell Deudraeth is also a hotel. But most of the buildings are either hotel rooms or suites or self catering accommodation. It isn’t cheap to stay there but as a special treat we booked a suite in one of the village buildings. You don’t know which one you’re staying in until you arrive. We had the top floor of “the Anchor“. It had two rooms – a lounge and a bedroom with a four-poster bed. Nicely furnished it had an excellent view out over the estuary.

The Anchor

The Anchor

Inside "the Anchor"

Inside "the Anchor"

The deal we had was for dinner bed and breakfast, the meals being taken in the main hotel. The food was very good – one quibble is that the meat was cooked more than we’d really asked for – “medium” was really well done and “rare” was more like medium.

As hotel guest you get the run of the village and it was good to be able to wander around after all the day visitors had left. Mind you, it wasn’t too busy when we arrived as it had been raining heavily on and off during the morning and afternoon. Luckily it eased off just after we arrived and we were able to wander round the village, walk down to the beach – luckily “Rover” wasn’t around (a “prisoner reference!) – and wander around the woods.

No sign of Rover!

No sign of Rover!

Unfortunately it poured down the next morning, so we only stayed a little while before moving on. Despite the rain it was an enjoyable break and we’ll do it again sometime – apparently you can get good deals during the off-season and it would be good to re-visit during the winter months.